Youth Classes:
My father was a child of the Depression, and could repair anything.  ANYTHING.  So, I grew up being tutored by him to do maintenance on my go kart at about 10 years old, including rebuilding the engine.  Then I graduated to doing tuneups on the family cars, almost before I was licensed to drive.  (Get the hint?)  When in high school I asked Dad if I should take the automotive class, and he told me he'd teach me everything that class taught, and then some.  So, during high school, when several of us bought a '37 Chevy Panel and converted it to a dune buggy, rebuilding that engine, shortening the frame, and doing other nifty things to it was, as Dad was wont to say, "par for the course".

Recently I discovered that many of the "utes" at church haven't had the opportunity to learn how to maintain a vehicle.  Given that, we created an Automotive Maintenance class using the following outline.  To say the class has been fun would be a huge understatement, at least for me.  And, I hear from some of the parents that their kids don't want to miss the class.  So, I believe it has been a success and we are now talking about what we are going to do next.  Stay tuned......

AUTOMOTIVE MAINTENANCE CLASS
  1. Introduction Session:
    1. Overview: This class is about maintaining a vehicle. Not building one, repairing one, or improving one. So, we are going to discuss the things that must be attended to in order to ensure the vehicle you are driving is safe and will get you there and back. The intent is to make you aware of things and not to make you a certified mechanic. We aren't going to learn how an engine works or every part in a car. We are just going to make you aware of the important things that can cause serious problems.

      And, I will make statements that your father or mother may not agree with. As Russell would say, “I'm ok with that”, but it doesn't mean I think I'm wrong.

    2. Safety: Participation in this session is mandatory before going to any other sessions. It will explain what safety means and why it is so important in anything, but especially automotive maintenance. If you think about it you'll see that you need to not only do the work safely, but also do the work well so that the vehicle will be safe to drive.

      • Attention: Your attention to what is going on and being said is required because we will be working with many dangerous tools and machines. Further, there are other machines in the shop that can harm you if you go wandering off and play with one. So, your attention is required. But, if you'd rather talk to others instead of listening then this isn't the class for you.

      • Dress: Closed-toed shoes are recommended as there are sharp things you could kick, and pieces of metal on the floor that could easily be embedded in a foot. And clothes that you don't mind getting dirty, or even greasy, are suggested. Further, jewelry may get dirty and/or snagged, so wear it at your own risk.

      • Machines: The shop has many things that are sharp. And many tools which are plugged in and ready to bite you if you turn them on. Keep your hands off anything you haven't been told to use.

      • Tools: Always use the right tool. (Take out each tool as you explain what they are for.):
        • Screwdrivers are not pry bars. They are brittle and will break, sometimes sending out shards that can hurt you.
        • Open-end wrenches will slip if pushed. It is just a matter of when, and that is always at the worst-possible time. They are good for snugging bolts/nuts up or removing parts that aren't seriously tightened.
        • Boxed-end wrenches can be used on really tight nuts or bolts as they don't slip off or open up like an open-end wrench.
        • Ratchets & sockets work like boxed-end wrenches, but are faster.
        • 12-point sockets don't hold a bolt like a 6-point socket, so if you are buying or have the choice....
        • Adjustable wrenches are a poor substitute for the right sized wrench or socket, but can be used in a pinch.
        • Pliers are not even a poor substitute for the right wrench or socket and should not be used on nuts or bolts. Instead, they are to grab something and hold on for positioning or removing it. And, they will pinch.
        • Jacks: Never work under a vehicle that isn't sitting on its wheels, on a lift with safety latches engaged, or on jack stands. Note that concrete blocks are NOT to be used, under any circumstance. (Tell Dad's story about concrete blocks.)
        • Jack stands: These are literally life savers. If you are going to work on a vehicle which isn't sitting on its wheels you must have jack stands.

      • If it cannot be done safely DO NOT DO IT!

  3. ​​Inspection Session: This session is designed to get you familiar with a vehicle. We will check a vehicle over to ensure it is safe and ready to drive:
    1. Tires:
      • Tread:
        • Depth: The minimum tread depth that is legally allowed is 2/32". However, that is so little tread that hydroplaning is likely. To test how much tread you have use a penny
          1. Place a penny between the tread ribs on your tire. A “rib” refers to the raised portion of tread that spans the circumference of your tire. Tire tread is composed of several ribs.
          2. Turn the penny so that Lincoln’s head points down into the tread.
          3. See if the top of his head disappears between the ribs. If it does, your tread is still above 2/32” , If you can see his entire head, it may be time to replace the tire because your tread is no longer deep enough.
        • Wear indicators: There are bars molded into the tires that are 2/32" in height. So, if those bars are flush with the top of the tread the tires are unfit for use - by law.
      • Age: Tires have a limited lifetime. Currently there is no law in the US which determines when tires must be replaced due to age. However, there is strong evidence that after 6 years of life a tire has degraded to the point that it should be replaced - regardless of the amount of tread it has. In fact, many automobile manufacturers have added recommendations in the owner's manuals of the vehicles they sell that say that all tires, including the spare, should be replaced after 6 years. And the reason is that an old tire that has no external indication of problems can fail suddenly and catastrophically.

        So, how do you tell how old the tires are? Not by seeing how old the vehicle is or when you bought the tires as they may have been made up to 2 years prior to being sold. Check the side of the tires as they are required to have codes that indicate who made them, where they were made, and when they were made. But, those codes are frequently on the inside of the tire. And, the part you are looking for is the last 4 digits of the code, which indicates the week and the year in the form of WWYY.
      • Pressure
        • Where to find recommended pressures
        • How to pick the right pressures from those recommended
        • Checking: You need a tire pressure gauge. And, you need to ensure you get the gauge on the tire stem straight or you will lose some of the pressure. Further, the tire should only be checked before the vehicle is driven, and preferably not when the tires have been sitting in the sun.
        • Filling: In order to fill a tire you'll need a source of compressed air – like is usually available at a filling station or via a home compressor. Don't worry about tires with green valve caps that are supposed to indicate they've been filled with nitrogen. Just go ahead and fill them with compressed air as there is very little data to indicate that nitrogen really helps.

    2. Underhood:

      • Cooling System:
        • Pressure: The engine's cooling system runs under pressure and at a high temp - sometimes in excess of the boiling point. So, if you pull the cap to the pressurized system when the engine is hot it is highly likely you will be badly burned. Given that, you should check the level of coolant when the engine is cold, before it has been started that day.
        • Recovery container: Most, if not all, vehicles you come across will have a container outside the pressurized system that "recovers" the excess coolant when the system gets hot and the coolant inside the system expands. This is where you should normally check for adequate coolant. Most systems will have a "Min" and "Max" line or a "Cold" and "Hot" line. These indicate where the level should be when you check before starting the vehicle the first time that day.
        • Adding coolant: Normally you can just add coolant to the recovery bottle when it gets a bit below the Cold or Minimum line. However, if there is no coolant in the bottle then the pressurized part of the system may be low and you'll have to figure that out by pulling the radiator cap - WHEN THE SYSTEM IS COLD! If the coolant is right up to the overflow on the neck of the radiator then all is well - just put the cap back on and fill the recovery bottle to the minimum line. But, if the radiator is low you will have to fill it, then put the cap on and fill the recovery bottle to the minimum or cold line.
        • Coolant: But, what should you fill the system or recovery bottle with? A 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. In a pinch when you are in the back-of-beyond and must get home you can use straight water or straight antifreeze.  However, that degrades the cooling capability of the system and will have to be corrected as soon as you get back to civilization.
        • Potential problem: If you have to frequently add coolant to the system then there's a leak somewhere.  And, while it might seem like you can just keep adding coolant, unless you know where it is going you can do irreparable damage and/or be stranded due to a "minor leak".  One reason is that a leak may be due to a hose that is in the process of splitting, and if it splits while you are driving you'll overheat the engine and also be stranded, very quickly.  So, don't just keep adding coolant without finding out where it is going.
        • Radiator cap: One critical element, and a potential leakage point, is the radiator cap. Often overlooked, it works under high pressure and temperatures so the seal is crucial. Inspect the two sealing surfaces for cracking and replace if there's any indication thereof. Or, just replace it as they aren't expensive.

      • Engine oil:
        • Level: Engines have a dip stick that allows you to determine how much oil is in the crankcase. And, while the oiling system isn't under pressure like the cooling system, you should wait at least 10 minutes after turning an engine off before checking the level. That's because the oil has to drain back into the crankcase so you can get an accurate reading. And, dip sticks have a "Low" or "Add" mark and a "Full" mark. You must keep the oil between those two lines. Not below nor above. Between. Otherwise you can damage the engine, which can easily cost in excess of $2000 to repair.
        • Adding: There is a place to add oil on the engine somewhere. It is shown in the owner's manual and is usually designated by the little oil lamp symbol and the word OIL. You'll pull it off, set it aside somewhere clean, and then use a funnel to aid in pouring in the right amount of oil. And, the right amount is determined by how low the oil is on the dip stick. Most of them have a one quart range between the Low and Full mark, but not all of them are that way. Some really small engines just have a pint between the marks. So, check out the manual to find out. And then add the right amount of oil through the proper point on the engine. What kind of oil? Ask your parents as they should know what oil is being used in the vehicle. Or, there may be a sticker on the windshield showing what was used.

      • Transmission/transaxle fluid: Some vehicles have a transmission and some have what is called a transaxle. In either case, it has lubricant in it.
        • Checking: In most cases there's a way to check the level of the lube. But, that can take a couple of different approaches, as described in the manual:
          1. Hot: Many vehicles must have their transmission lube checked when the vehicle is hot and idling in Park. This isn't hard to do, but it is easy to get burned on a hot exhaust system or have your hand caught in the cooling fan - so preparation and caution is required. Figure out where the dip stick is and practice checking the level when the engine is cold so you can check it when it is hot w/o getting hurt.
          2. Cold: Some vehicles are to be checked when the transmission is cold, or have the ability to be checked both cold and hot.
        • Adding: Again, there are differences in the distance between the marks on the dip stick. But, most have one quart between them. And the manual will tell you how much lubricant is between the marks, as well as what type of automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to use.

      • Windshield washer fluid: Most, if not all, vehicles have a bottle under the hood for windshield washer fluid. Some people put water in them, but that's not a good idea as it'll freeze in the winter and break the bottle. So use a washer fluid, which is available from most service stations, parts stores, Walmart, etc. It doesn't have to be expensive, although some of the more expensive ones work a bit better and some even leave a film on the the windshield that makes it easier to clean bugs off.

      • Brake fluid: All vehicles have a brake master cylinder, and most of them have a plastic reservoir that allows you to check the level of fluid w/o removing the cap. ALWAYS keep the level between the Min and Max lines. And, since brake fluid absorbs moisture, it is best to fill from a new can of fluid. Check the manual for the type of fluid, which is usually DOT 3. But, realize that brake fluid can easily damage paint, so do not get any of it on the body of the vehicle. And, make sure you clean the cap and the surrounding area of the master cylinder so no dirt gets in when you pull the cap.

      • Hoses: Most vehicles have 4 hoses - upper and lower radiator hoses, and two heater hoses. The radiator hoses are the larger of the two and go, as the name implies, from the engine to & from the radiator. The heater hoses are usually garden hose sized and run back to the firewall or thereabouts. These hoses operate under about 14 psi and very high temperatures, so tend to deteriorate. So they need to be inspected to insure they aren't leaking or about to leak. Turn the hoses as best you can to see them from all sides. And, look at them from the bottom. Use a light and maybe a small mirror.

      • Belts: Older vehicles had several belts that ran the accessories. But, newer vehicles usually have one belt to run everything. And, if that belt fails so do the accessories - frequently including the water pump to the engine, the alternator, and power steering pump. In other words, when that belt fails you stop. So, they should be inspected for cracks, separation, etc. Turn the belt so you can see the back side and also look at the edge since the failure always starts other than on the side you can see easily. Use a light to help.

      • Battery & cables:
        • Battery: Automotive batteries contain an acid that works with metal plates in the battery to provide electricity via a chemical reaction. But, over time both the acid and the plates break down, which reduces the battery's ability to start the vehicle. Further, each battery is made up of multiple cells, and there are connections between the cells that can go bad. The best way to test a battery is to take it to an auto parts store, like O'Reilly's, as they have a way to test them.
        • Cables: Due to the acid in the batteries it isn't unusual for a leak to form at the battery connections, which are frequently called “posts”. The acid then attacks the connection between the battery and the cables, causing the connection to go bad and preventing the vehicle from starting. But, it is easy to clean the connections, although a terminal brush makes it much easier. However, if you pull the battery connection you will lose any settings held in volatile memory, like the radio presets, the transmission's learnings, etc. So, it is best to put a backup battery on before you pull the cable.
    3. Lights: Unfortunately many vehicles don't have a warning light that tells the driver when an exterior light is out. So, it is important to do a walk-around periodically to ensure they are all working.
      • Checking:
        • Headlights: You need to check both the high and low beams, which means two trips to the front of the vehicle - or, check it in the garage or against the garage door.
        • Tail lights: Turn the lights on and check that both tail lights work.
        • Brake lights/turn signals: Most cars have brake lights that double as turn signals. On those cars you can check them by turning on the turn signals to one side and checking them from the outside, and then to the other side. But, some vehicles have separate turn signals and brake lights. In that case you will have to have a partner to check the brake lights. Or, back up close to the garage door and test them after dark.
        • Marker lights
        • Backup lights
      • Repair:
        • Headlights:
          1. Polishing: Many vehicles have headlight lenses that are made of plastic. And, over time most of them turn brown and seriously degrade the amount of light that passes through. These lenses must be polished to get down to clear plastic, and that turns into a maintenance problem because they will probably need to be polished every few months thereafter. Kits to polish them are available at the parts stores or even Walmart, and are quite effective
          2. Replacement: There are at least two types of headlight assemblies:
            • Separate bulb: Many vehicles now have a small bulb that can be replaced w/o replacing the whole headlight assembly. Check the owner's manual on what type you have and, the number of the bulb if that is what you have. But, it may not be as straight forward as it at first seems as there are frequently things in the way of accessing the bulb. Further, if you touch the glass of the new bulb you must clean it with alcohol to get the oil from your skin off or it will fail prematurely. In any event, once the bulb is replaced you should check the alignment of the beam that is projected, say on the garage door, to ensure the headlight is still properly aligned.
        1. Complete assembly: Some vehicles don't have a bulb that can be replaced in the headlight. Instead you have to replace the whole assembly. The owner's manual will show you how to do that, but when it is done the headlight will have to be aligned. (Do we want to explain how to do that???)

      • Other Lights: The owner's manual shows how to replace each bulb as well as the model # of the bulb you need to buy.

  5. Replacing a flat tire
    1. Find "the" spot where you can do it safely:
      • Off the road far enough, and preferably with the flat tire on the opposite side from traffic
      • A firm base for the jack, meaning some place flat and with hard-packed ground if not concrete.
      • If you cannot get both of those requirements, do not attempt to change the tire.
    2. Get the spare ready: There's no need to jack the vehicle up if the spare is flat. Check that it has adequate pressure before you start jacking.
    3. Loosening lug nuts: You'll need to loosen the lug nuts/bolts before jacking the vehicle up and taking the tire off the ground. Otherwise the wheel will probably rotate and prevent you from breaking them loose.
    4. Jacking, safely: The jack must be used in accordance with the directions for that vehicle. And that always includes placing the jack on firm ground - preferably on concrete or asphalt.
    5. Removing the flat tire: With the tire completely off the ground by at least 2", remove the lug bolts/nuts and remove the tire. And keep your hands and feet out from under the vehicle!
    6. Installing spare: Rotate the hub until one lug is straight up. Now rotate the tire until one hole is straight up, and lift the tire into place by watching through the hole to line up the lug. Loosely install one lug nut on the top lug and rotate the tire to get all of the other lugs through the holes. Install the remainder of the lug nuts by hand.
    7. Snugging lug nuts: Run all of the nuts down by hand and/or the lug wrench. But they must be snug against the wheel.
    8. Lower the jack: Bring the tire into contact with the ground by lowering the jack, but don't put the full weight of the vehicle on the tire - just enough to keep it from turning when tightening the lugs.
    9. Tightening lug nuts: Tighten the lugs in an alternating pattern to ensure that the wheel is tightened evenly against the hub. Otherwise it is easy to warp a hub/disc brake rotor. In a shop you would use a torque wrench set to whatever specification the manual says to torque the lugs, but on the side of the road you'll just have to torque them tight, but as evenly as you can.
    10. Stowing spare and jack: You will have to have the flat tire repaired so there's a tendency to not stow it away. However, that could be a fatal choice if the vehicle is an SUV and you have an accident as the tire could come flying forward and kill someone. Always safely store the tire and secure it.
  1. Maintainance
    1. Oil & Filter: Opinions vary as to how often you need to change oil. And the fact that synthetic oil can go for at least twice as far as dino oil adds to the debate. Plus, your driving style makes a huge difference since an engine that just drives a couple of miles to and from church a few times a week won't get warm enough to drive off the products of combustion, like water, that congregate in the oil. I change dino-based oil at 3,500 miles or 12 months, and fully-synthetic oil at 7,000 miles or 12 months.

      Before changing oil you need to warm the engine up as you want the oil to drain quickly and take all of the yuk residing in it out with it. But, the engine doesn't have to be truly HOT. In fact, a hot engine is no fun to work around. So, just get the temp up to “normal” and drain the oil. But, pull the oil filler cap before you do so the oil will drain as rapidly as possible.

      Then, when the oil has drained and you have the plug back in, with a new gasket, loosen the oil filter. Depending on the location and orientation of the filter you may want to just loosen it and let the oil drain around it, or take it off completely. But, make sure the gasket comes off with the filter. Then lubricate the gasket on the new filter with oil and put it on until the gasket hits the engine, and turn it ¾ more turn.

      With the new filter on and the drain plug in, add the required amount of oil – but don't overfill. Once you've added the oil check that the dip stick shows lots of oil. Then start the engine and ensure that the oil pressure light goes out or that the pressure comes up where it should be. Shut the engine down, wait 10 minutes to let the oil drain back, and check that the level shows FULL on the dip stick.

    2. Coolant: Most engines are said to be “water cooled”, but that's really a misnomer as you should not run straight water in an engine. There are two reasons for that. First, water freezes at 32 degrees, but the proper mix of antifreeze won't freeze until something like -34 degrees. Second, straight water will quickly corrode a modern engine as it doesn't have the necessary corrosion inhibitors. So, a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water should be kept in an engine at all times. Unfortunately, the chemicals in antifreeze break down over time so the coolant needs to be replaced periodically. Most manufacturers recommend replacing it every 3 years or 30,000 miles.

      Unfortunately, many vehicles don't include a valve with which to drain the cooling system. And those that do frequently put the valve at a point where the coolant won't drain neatly into a container. Further, those that don't have a valve require you to pull the lower radiator hose loose to drain the coolant, and that's anything but neat. So, this is usually a messy undertaking and I tend to do a thorough job when I do it and replace everything involved, like hoses, water pump, thermostat, and radiator cap, just so I don't have anything go wrong down the road.

      But, there's nothing hard about doing it, so there's no reason to let your system go bad.

    3. Air Filter: This is another area where recommendations and opinions are all over the map. Some manufacturers recommend changing every 30,000 miles and some say every 45,000 miles. But, most of them cut the miles in half if you frequently drive on dirt roads or in dusty conditions. Fortunately fuel injection systems automatically compensate for a dirty air filter so that doesn't usually hurt the fuel economy of a vehicle. But, a clogged filter can reduce the performance considerably. And, since replacing the filter is so easy and the cost is minimal then there's little reason not to do so.

      While the “how to” varies by vehicle, there is usually a plastic housing that has to be removed to access the air filter. Typically there are a couple of buckles that release the housing, but in some cases there are a few screws or bolts that need to be removed. In any event, it is usually explained in the owner's manual. And usually there's only one way the filter will go in, so it is pretty straight forward.

    4. Spark Plugs: The manufacturers have widely varying recommendations on when to replace spark plugs and, if necessary, the associated plug wires, so check the owner's manual to determine when to change. But, while it isn't usually a difficult job, it needs to be done correctly or expensive damage can occur to the engine. First, anti-seize compound must be used on the threads as most modern engines have aluminum heads and it isn't unusual for an un-lube'd spark plug to pull the threads out of the head when removed. Second, you must make sure that the spark plug isn't cross-threaded when put in or the threads will be ruined. Last, a torque wrench really should be used as it is fairly easy to over-tighten the plug and strip the threads.

      But, having said all of that, it really isn't that difficult and you can do it. And, I'm willing to help you if you want. Call me.

    5. Transmission Fluid: Many manufacturers say their transmissions are sealed for life. And, that's true if you are willing to accept a short life on your transmission. But automatic transmission fluid, ATF, has lots of chemicals in it that wear out over time or miles. While there is no set point in time or miles, I would say 100,000 miles is the max I'd go w/o changing. And, if you have an older vehicle that is exhibiting poor shifting or slow engagement I'd change the ATF immediately.

      But, since the manufacturers seem to think no one is going to change the fluid they rarely give you a drain plug. So, you are stuck loosening the bolts on the transmission's pan and prying a corner down in order to get the fluid out. Then, when you have most of it out you can remove the pan, clean it, and replace the gasket and the filter. It is messy, but worth it.

    6. Belt(s): These need to be replaced when they start cracking, as discussed above. But, the method depends entirely on the vehicle, and not all owner's manuals explain how to do it. So, some other instructions are needed – either from a shop manual or via the internet. 

    7. Rotating Tires: The front tires on a vehicle wear differently than the rear tires. On a RWD vehicle the front tires do all of the steering and most of the stopping, while the rear tires are providing the go. So the front tires wear more on the edges than do the rear tires. But, on a FWD vehicle the front tires do the vast majority of the work and the rear tires are along for the ride. Given that, the tires need to be rotated on a periodic basis. I rotate them at the same time I change oil and filter.

      Most manufacturers recommend keeping tires on the same side of the vehicle, meaning that the right-rear moves to the right-front, and vice versa. So, you need to jack up one corner, put a jack stand under it, and then jack up the other corner on the same side and jack-stand it. But, if you do that without breaking the lug nuts loose you'll find it very difficult to break them loose in the air. Given that, I like to take the load off of the tire with the jack but don't lift it completely off the ground, break the lug nuts loose, and then jack it up and put a jack stand under it. Once both corners are on jack stands pull the wheels off, swap them, snug the lug nuts up as best you can using the pattern discussed previously, and then jack the corner up, pull the jack stand, and lower the corner enough to allow you to tighten the lug nuts fully.

      Do the other corner and Bob's your uncle. (Ask Russell.)

    8. Driveline: Depending on the type of vehicle there are several things that can easily be checked:
      • Front-wheel drive: FWD vehicles have a transaxle and drive axles, called “half-shafts”, to the front wheels. There will be constant-velocity joints (CV joints) on each end of the drive axles, and the boots on those are critical. If a boot is leaking or split then you will soon have failure of the CV joint and that will happen at the worst-possible time. Replacement of a half-shaft is best left to a mechanic, but you should check the boots periodically, such as when the oil is changed.

        In addition, front-wheel drive vehicles have a differential in the transaxle. Some of those use the lube of the transmission and some have their own lube. Check with your owner's manual to determine which type you have and if yours has its own lube check it at the recommended intervals.


      • Rear-wheel drive: These vehicles have a drive shaft from the transmission to the rear axle. The drive shaft will have one or more universal joints, called “u-joints”, in it. Some of these are sealed, but some have grease fittings and should be lubricated periodically. In any event, the u-joint should not have any slack in it, either side-to-side or rotationally.

        Further, the differential on RWD vehicles has lubrication in it and the level thereof should be checked in accordance with the maintenance schedule. The owner's manual will indicate how to check, but this is frequently done by pulling a plug and ensuring the level of the lube is up to the bottom of the hole.

        In addition, some RWD vehicles have independent rear suspension, which means that they have half-shafts in the rear just like FWD vehicles have in the front. So, the boots on the 4 CV joints must be checked to ensure they aren't leaking or splitting.


      • All-wheel/4-wheel drive: These vehicles are basically a combination of FWD and RWD, so will have half-shafts up front and a drive shaft to a rear axle. In addition, serious 4WD systems, like on a pickup, will have a drive shaft to a front differential and a transfer case. With the exception of the transfer case and the extra drive shaft, these are inspected as above.

    9. Suspension: There are many components to the suspension system on a modern vehicle, but only two that are easily checked:
      • Shocks: Shock absorbers, also known as struts, wear out and, when they do, make the vehicle harder to handle and, eventually, unsafe to drive. The age-old method of testing shocks is to bounce each corner of the vehicle by hand and note the number of bounces it makes before stopping. One bounce is good, two bounces are acceptable, and three or more mean the shock is worn out. But, you also have to listen for clunks as it is possible for the shock to break internally such that it doesn't work at all. In that case it isn't a judgement call on whether it needs to be replaced, but a requirement.

      • Ball-joints & wheel bearings: Front wheels have to have some sort of pivot which allows them to be steered. One approach to doing this is called a “ball joint”, but others are used as well. In addition, the wheel must rotate smoothly to allow the car to roll. Checking ball-joints and wheel bearings can be done by placing the front suspension on a jack stand and trying to move the wheel in various directions. There should be no slack to speak of, and if there is then you must determine what is causing it – and that means a trip to a mechanic.

    10. Brakes: There are two types of brakes in general use – disc and drum. Almost all modern vehicles have disc brakes on the front, and many have them on the rear as well. In any event, it is good to know what kind of brakes your vehicle has as the testing procedure varies between types:
      • Disc: These brakes use a rotor that is much like a big dinner plate and a caliper that pinches the rotor to stop the vehicle. As the friction material in the brake pads in the calipers wear they eventually become worn out and must be replaced. Many brake pads have a piece of ceramic imbedded in them such that the ceramic will give a sound when the pads are worn out. But, not all do and when the friction material is gone you get metal on metal and a grinding noise ensues. At this point the brakes are essentially gone and you are damaging the rotors, so you want to avoid this situation at all costs. Unfortunately it is frequently difficult to see how much brake pad is left w/o taking the tire and wheel off. So, each time you rotate the tires you should check to see how much pad is left.

      • Drum: These brakes have “shoes” with friction material on them that sit inside a drum, and when the brake pedal is pushed the shoes are pushed outward against the drum. Unfortunately it is impossible to determine the amount of friction material on the shoes w/o pulling the drums off, so that's not normally checked. However, if you hear a grinding noise then it is likely that the friction material is gone and the brakes need to be serviced – immediately.

INSPECTION CHECKLIST

Tires:
  • Tread depth
    • Left front:
    • Right front:
    • Left rear:
    • Right rear:
  • Pressure
    • Left front:
    • Right front:
    • Left rear:
    • Right rear:
  • Cracks (sidewall, tread area, and valve stem)
    • Left front:
    • Right front:
    • Left rear:
    • Right rear:
  • Manufactured date:
    • Left front:
    • Right front:
    • Left rear:
    • Right rear:
Underhood:
  • Coolant
    • Level
    • Quality:
      • Freeze point
      • Color
    • Pressure/radiator cap
  • Engine oil:
    • Level
    • Miles/months
  • Transmission/transaxle level
  • Washer fluid
  • Brake fluid
  • Hoses
    • Top radiator
    • Bottom radiator
    • Heater (both)
  • Belts
  • Electrical
  • Battery connections
  • Battery cables
Lighting
  • Headlights
    • Working, both high and low beams
    • Clean
  • Stop/turn
  • Tail
  • Marker
Driveline
  • U-Joints
  • Constant velocity joints/boots
  • Differential
Suspension
  • Shock absorbers
  • Ball-joints & wheel bearings
Brakes
  • Grinding/screetch
  • Grooves
  • Leaks
  • Pad thickness